Breaking Barriers – Jerry’s Roof 7c


So I’ve been climbing a long time, started
pretty young – five or something like that. more just scrambling and sort of
occasional bits of climbing because we didn’t live near any kind of climbing,
there weren’t climbing walls really back then. it took a while
for me to progress a little bit but I eventually worked my way up to
sort of 6c/ 7a basically climbing 7a and then kind of plateaued for a
long time through work, through working through my climbing instructor, mountain
instructor qualifications and just day-to-day life. I just wasn’t getting
enough time climbing to progress any further so I sort of plateaued on that
7a grade for you know ten, fifteen years. I made some pretty big
changes in my life and one of the results of that was it gave me a lot
more time to be able to climb and do the things that make me happy and that
has sort of led me to – I guess why this problem’s such a big milestone
for me; is having been on stuck on that plateau for so long , 15
years, to actually be able to break through – not just break through into the
7b grade barrier, the next grade up from where I was, but 7c is like
substantially higher than where I was and it’s a grade that I never thought I
would ever be able to climb well here we are again back at Jerry’s
roof in Snowdonia, so it’s been a couple of months since I tried it. I had a couple
of sessions working out the moves and then a session going for it trying to get it all I could do all the moves but just couldn’t quite
link it all together. anyway we’re back so I guess we’re gonna see if I’m any
stronger or any fitter. the problem is I can’t quite remember all moves so I’ve got to try and re figure out all the little micro beta and tiny little foot adjustments. basically we’ve got today, weather’s good today and the weather might be good tomorrow and then we’ve got to leave Snowdonia, and we won’t be
back for at least a few months. so, I feel quite nervous, I don’t know if
I’m putting myself under extra pressure or if it’s because it would be quite a
grade breakthrough for me but I feel nervous because I know I can do all the
moves and I do just need to link it all together, I don’t know if that makes easier
if it puts more pressure on well finished at Jerry’s roof. got further
than I’ve ever got before so that’s good, managed to do the crux
from the start and then I didn’t get the crux done very well – it takes so much
energy doing the crux and just somehow holding that move that I then was too
tired to do the rest of it. but yes it was a shame. on the upside though, a local turned
up and gave me some new beta, changed a foot placement for the crux and the
crux felt quite a bit easier. maybe next session that means I’ll be able to get it.
definitely felt a little bit stronger on it this time than last time
and yeah conditions felt better less sweaty, so progress 7c! it’s been a good week. Felt alright warmed up did the crux best I’ve ever done it, got on sent it yeah got the crux,
felt a bit tired at the top, but just went really well I was so anxious, just playing mind games before, thinking I know I can
kind of do the moves but it’s that psychological battle that continuous
self-doubt – you’ve never climbed anything this hard before can you do it. I was just
kind of putting it off because I knew that I only had three
goes, three good goes and then that would probably be it – tomorrow it’s raining
all the other days after that it’s raining so, I was kind of putting it off
and putting it off, putting it off because I just didn’t I didn’t want it
to be over – I didn’t want to have to have that niggle
that unfinished project leaving here it still seems slightly surreal
I still look in the guide book now and look if a boulder problem says 7c I look
at it and think I’ll never be able to climb that and then I have to sort of remind myself I
have actually, I have climbed 7c so maybe I could try it. it’s been a journey to
get through to this stage and it’s basically been a year since being able
to climb a lot more, so it’s taken me about a years climbing to break from
that 7a barrier to be able to climb that 7c so I’m pretty excited to see
what happens in another years time it would be so nice to be able to climb an
8a, but I think that might take more than a year

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